Three Stunning Northumberland Circular Walks, with a Fantastic Pub at the End!
- Debby
- Oct 8
- 8 min read
Northumberland is a walker's paradise, we have so many incredibly beautiful walks throughout the county, from relaxing coastal strolls, to challenging hills that reward the hiker with breath-taking views.
As I write this blog in October, I'm reminded that there is something magical about walking through Northumberland in the autumn. The air turns crisp, the light softens, and the landscape bursts into a rich display of red, gold and the deepest of greens. It is the perfect time to pull on your walking boots, breathe in the season and explore some of the region’s most beautiful trails.
Here are three of my favourite Northumberland walks that particularly shine at this time of year, although they are fantastic throughout the seasons. These are the wilds that I turn to when I crave inspiration or escape. I have included a few excerpts from my hiking diary to take you right there with me; to the hills, to the ancient ruins and to the secrets of the forests.
Each of these firm-favourite hikes offers stunning scenery, a good stretch of the legs, plus a welcoming spot to relax afterwards and enjoy with a pint and some delicious Northumberland comfort food.
Wooler Common and Woodland Park
Tucked just outside the charming town of Wooler, lies Wooler Common a peaceful mix of woodland, moorland and open countryside. The network of trails makes it easy to choose a walk to suit your mood and ability. From flat, easily accessible paths around the parkland, that criss-cross streams and pass ponds via small wooden bridges, to more demanding walks that take you over rougher terrain and require a reasonable level of fitness.
One of the most rewarding routes is the Gains Law and Wooler Common loop. This takes you out of Wooler, up through Humbleton, across open moor to Gains Law, and back along part of St Cuthbert’s Way. It offers wonderful variety with sweeping views, quiet wooded sections and a real sense of space.
Wooler Common, miles of trails and parkland to explore
In autumn the woods glow with beech and birch leaves turning golden, while the moorland takes on soft amber and copper tones. It is a place where you can lose track of time and simply enjoy the colours and calm of the season.
Recently I found a rather descriptive excerpt from my hiking diary that will take you straight there amongst the dancing heather and brisk winds; "The path across Wooler Common stretched ahead, wildly inviting with the kind of terrain that keeps your eyes on your feet as often as the horizon. The North Easterly wind cut across the exposed common, sharp and relentless, carrying the bite of the North Sea with it. The Cheviots loomed darkly against the sky, whilst ahead, Gains Law rose like a promise, modest by comparison but commanding in its own right. The common had that particular Northumbrian quality of feeling both empty and full at once: empty of people, certainly, but full with the beauty of nature and untapped adventure. As I climbed toward Gains Law, the wind hitting harder with every step, the view opened behind me: Wooler tucked into its valley, the patchwork of fields spreading east toward the coast, and those brooding hills all around. At the summit cairn, I paused, not for long, it was too cold for lingering, but long enough to turn slowly, taking it all in before heading on, collar up and hands deep in pockets against the cutting wind.”
10th October 2015
Walk details
Length: Variable (around 5 to 7 miles depending on the loop)
Duration: 2 to 3 hours at a steady pace
Difficulty: Moderate, with some gentle inclines
Where to eat or drink afterwards
After your walk, a short drive brings you to Ad Gefrin Distillery, just outside Wooler. It is a beautiful place to warm up with a drink or enjoy a relaxed meal. The interior is stylish and welcoming, and if you are lucky you might find a roaring fire waiting for you. It is the perfect way to round off a crisp autumn walk. And don't forget to sample our local whisky Tacnbora, its pretty amazing. There's a fantastic gift shop at the distillery, as well as an Anglo-Saxon Museum which offers an interactive journey into the historic Kings and Queens of old Northumberland.
Hadrian’s Wall from Steel Rigg to Crag Lough
Few places capture the drama of Northumberland like Hadrian’s Wall. The section from Steel Rigg to Crag Lough, passing the famous Sycamore Gap, is one of the most iconic walks in the county.
Starting at Steel Rigg car park or The Sill Visitor Centre, the route follows the wall across undulating ground. It leads to Sycamore Gap, where a solitary tree once sat perfectly framed between crags ( the remains of the famous tree are now in a phase of regrowth, forming a multi-stemmed tree) and then on towards Highshield Crags overlooking Crag Lough.
The scenery is breath-taking at any time of year, but in autumn the wall stands stark against bracken and woodland turned to gold. The low light brings a special clarity to the landscape, making it a photographer’s dream. This section of the 84-mile Hadrian's Wall Path is by far the most popular with day walkers, because of its breath-taking views and wild rugged scenery.
Be advised that the path route does entail a couple of steep ascents and decents, but the views are well worth the effort. As the trail is a moderate 5 mile circular you can progress at your own pace and enjoy the incredible landscape, if it takes you a full afternoon then so be it, there's a good pub not far from the finish.
This walk never disappoints, the views just are incredible
“The sun was dropping fast over Hadrian's Wall, casting long shadows as I hurried along the ancient stones. September light slips away quickly, and I was utterly alone. The wall stretched endlessly ahead, rising and falling with the crags, I had that feeling of being watched. Could it be ghosts of Roman soldiers who'd fought and fallen on this brutal frontier. The thought of being caught out here in darkness, stumbling among these haunted stones with only spectres for company, quickened my pace. Night was coming on fast, as I was raced back to the car with my heart pounding.”
12th September 2008
Walk details
Length: 5 miles (out and back)
Duration: Around 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate, with a few short steep climbs, narrow steps and steep decents
Where to eat or drink afterwards
Just a few minutes away from Steel Rig Car Park is The Twice Brewed Inn, a popular stop for walkers and a lovely place to relax after your hike. The pub has hearty meals, good local ales and a friendly atmosphere that makes it a favourite with both visitors and locals. Check out the fantastic gift shop and brewing house where you can buy bottles of their multi-awarding winning lagers and ales, as well as small-batch distilled spirits including local rum and gin.
Bull Crag Circular on Kielder Water
Kielder Reservoir is Northern Europe's biggest manmade lake, surrounded by England's largest forest. Miles and miles of way-marked walking trails lead off in every direction, you can even hike the entire 26 mile shoreline path, if you're up for a bit of a challenge.
However, for a more relaxed walk I'd recommend the impressive Bull Crag Peninsula track. At a manageable 6 miles long on pretty much flat terrain, this route takes you along the water's edge past some of Kielder's many artistic sculptures. Every sculpture has a story of it's own, stop to admire these beautiful creations as you read the storyboard that accompanies each work of art.
The route takes you through the forest where a mix of conifer and deciduous trees creates a striking contrast in autumn, with golden leaves against dark green pines. The air here feels particularly fresh and still, and it is easy to find a peaceful rhythm as you walk among the trees. If you're planning to walk on a weekend, I'd recommend getting here nice and early, that way you'll have the place to yourself, and a much greater chance of spotting red squirrels, otter, and deer. The walk begins at Leaplish Park. After parking up exit the car park then head South toward the Waterside Lodges, following the sign posts for "Lakeside Way".
The path takes you along past the Waterski Centre, following the lake in a southerly direction. Look out for Freya's Cabin and see if you can spot Robin's Hut across the opposite side of lake. The next sculpture of interest is the Timelapse, which is used as a frame to capture the view looking down Kielder Water.
Artist and creator David Rickard says: 'The sculpture ‘Timelapse’ arrives from the underlying materials that define Kielder; timber and time. As visitors approach ‘Time-lapse’ their first impression might be of a large stack of timber drying within the heart of the forest. Harvested at Kielder, this neat mass of timber embraces the materiality of the forest whilst also forming a minimal sculpture in juxtaposition to the surrounding landscape.'
Walking through the trees around Kielder Water, stop to enjoy the view at The Timelapse (centre image)
Walk details
Length: Around 6 miles (loop)
Duration: 2 to 2.5 hours
Difficulty: Easy going, mainly flat and even pathways
Where to eat or drink afterwards
Once you have finished your walk, there are some lovely places nearby to refuel. The Forest Bar & Kitchen, overlooking Kielder Water, offers panoramic views and a relaxed setting that is perfect for unwinding.
If you prefer a traditional country pub, The Pheasant Inn on the road out heading to Falstone is an excellent choice. It is a very pretty historic inn with cosy corners, home cooked food and a welcoming fire. Both options give you the chance to savour the quiet beauty of Kielder after a day outdoors.
Final Thoughts for Wildness Loving Walkers
There's something about walking in Northumberland that unlocks the imagination in ways no desk ever could. Perhaps it's the solitude, that rare gift of being truly alone with your thoughts, miles from anyone, with only the wind and the wildlife for company. The Cheviots offer an emptiness that feels almost sacred, a landscape so vast and uninterrupted that your mind expands to fill it.
The wooded silence of Kielder holds its own magic, darker and more secretive, where twisted roots and shifting shadows seem to whisper. There's something about physical movement through dramatic landscape that bypasses the conscious mind entirely. Northumberland doesn't just tolerate solitary wanderers, it rewards them, offering up inspiration as generously as it offers up its endless horizons and beauty. In my mind, Autumn is one of the most beautiful seasons to walk in Northumberland. The changing light, crisp air and vibrant colours bring a new energy to familiar landscapes. Whether you are wandering through the woods at Wooler Common, tracing history along Hadrian’s Wall or exploring the remote beauty of Kielder, each of these walks offers something special.
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See you on the trail,
Debby & Jeff
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