My 30-Mile, 3 Castles Challenge - Hiking the Best of Northumberland’s Coastal Path
- 5 days ago
- 7 min read
Updated: 4 days ago
I’ve hiked the Northumberland Coastal Path on so many occasions, but for this walk I wanted a physical challenge that captured everything the coastline has to offer. From white sandy secluded bays to dramatic historic castles, beginning with picturesque seaside villages and finishing with a bustling port town.
The Northumberland Coastal Path is regarded as one of the finest coastal walks in Europe. From Berwick in the north to Cresswell in the south, the waymarked route covers a total of 62 miles. The route is generally flat, well‑maintained and is suitable for most walkers. To walk the entire path, most people tend to allow between 3-5 days, but I wanted a tough challenge I could complete in a day.
A challenge that would push my endurance, leaving me feeling that I’d accomplished something impressive and a walk that would keep me inspired for weeks to come. This hike certainly ticked all those boxes. Yes, I had blisters, but by God I enjoyed earning them.
Leg 1 – Castle 1: Hiking the Northumberland Coastal Path from Bamburgh
The reason I chose not to begin my challenge at Bamburgh Castle itself, is so I could really appreciate the full beauty of the castle at sunrise as I approached it from a mile up the beach.
I began walking at Stag Rock, below Bamburgh Lighthouse, the most northerly land-based lighthouse in England, which was built in 1910 as a 42ft unmanned lighthouse, complete with acetylene gas lamps.
I always think the lighthouse looks like it has a Shocked Face!!
Just below the lighthouse, you'll find the famous Stag Rock. A white stag painted on the rocky outcrop leading into the sea. Legend has it that a stag jumped into the sea at this point, rather than be killed by hunters pursuing it. There is also a local folktale in which St Aidan saved the stag from a pack of hounds by making it invisible.
The views of the castle as you approach are nothing short of spectacular; you get to appreciate the castle in all its glory, giving you plenty of opportunities to create some stunning photographs.
Stag Rock starting point, approaching the castle
This first leg of the journey continues from Bamburgh to Seahouses, then through the village of Beadnell. From Beadnell, the path cuts through the caravan park, taking you on toward Newton-by-the-Sea, where you can always stop for a quick drink at the famous Ship Inn pub and micro-brewery.
Once down onto the beach, you’ll be able to see the ruins of the 14th-century stronghold Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance. The day I walked this part of the beach, I saw just two other people in four miles of walking; I pretty much had the place to myself.
With the castle ever approaching in the distance, it spurred me on to pick up the pace as I’d promised myself a 15-20 minute stop at the village of Craster.
First Leg Important Information
Distance: 14 miles
Walking time: 4.5 - 5.5 hours
Refreshment stops: Beadnell Village or The Ship at Newton-by-the-Sea
To begin the walk, I parked my car in a small parking area just 50 yards from Bamburgh Lighthouse. There were no parking charges or visible restrictions.
Leg 2 – Castle 2: Craster to Alnmouth - Dunstanburgh Castle
After ticking off Dunstanburgh Castle, I pushed on a mile or so to Craster village where I could enjoy a proper sit down and a freshly brewed coffee from the little barista van parked up by the harbour.
It was also a good place to refill my water supplies, as the day was pushing on, by 10.30am it was already 20 degrees and set to hit 27 at midday.
The walk out of Craster takes in some of Northumberland’s more rugged and dramatic coastline, with plenty of secluded rocky bays, and the famous “Bathing House”, now a luxury holiday cottage with a 3-year waiting list.
The Bathing House was built for former Prime Minister Earl Grey in the 19th Century. The Earl had 16 children, and so he and his family could go for a swim together; the Bathing House was built, perched on a rocky outcrop above the beach. Sea bathing was fashionable among the Georgian aristocracy, and this was the family's favoured spot on the coast, so the Earl built them a house there. He then had two rock-cut pools constructed on the foreshore below the building.
After stopping for water and a very quick snack on the beach at Boulmer, my next stop was going to be the gorgeous picture-postcard village of Alnmouth. I decided that in Alnmouth I’d allow myself a good 20 minutes rest before pushing on to Warkworth Castle, as the midday sun was really beginning to heat up and the sweat seemed to be pouring off me in buckets as I tried to keep up a steady fast walking pace of 4 miles per hour.
Once Warkworth Castle was close, I’d be down to just 3 or 4 miles to my final destination of Amble and a well deserved pint.
A few miles short of Alnmouth, I had to pop a couple of painkillers as the soles of my feet and lower back were beginning to cause me discomfort. At this point I decided, no more stopping to take photos. So I popped in my earbuds, turned my music up to full volume, and as the Nurofen began to kick in I started striding out my pace on a mission to reach the little village by 1pm.
Second Leg Important Information
Distance: 8 miles (Although I did add extra miles to mine as I had to double back after leaving my dog's lead on a bench near Boulmer!!)
Walking time: 2 - 2.5 hours
Refreshment stops: Craster Village or The Fishing Boat Inn at Boulmer
Not many places to fill up with water on this leg of the route. So if it's a hot day make sure you have ample. I was carrying around 3 litres for me and my dog Charlie.
Leg 3 – Castle 3: Alnmouth to Amble - Warkworth Castle
The little seaside village of Alnmouth is so incredibly picturesque, known for its pastel-painted houses and being located in an “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” on the Northumberland Coast; it’s a haven for wildlife.
The village dates back to the 12th century, and was once a busy grain port. Alnmouth is also home to the 4th Oldest Golf Club in England, established in 1869, the Coastal Path takes you along the boundaries of the golf course as you arrive.
Alnmouth estuary and golf course
After arriving in Alnmouth, the Coastal Route Path took me on a bit of a detour around the streets and the marina; if I’d ignored the route signs and just taken the bridge straight out of the village and across the River Aln I would have saved myself about 15 minutes and yet more unnecessary steps.
But anyway, I needed to visit a shop on the main street to purchase a couple more litres of water, as Charlie, my Springer Spaniel was drinking two or three bowls full every hour.
After leaving Alnmouth the path took me across the River Aln, running parallel with the village for a fantastic view of the colourful old fisherman’s houses that overlook the marina and estuary.
I was now on the home straight; next stop would be castle number 3 at Warkworth, taking a short detour through the village to stop and photograph the castle before rejoining the Coastal Path for the last mile or so to Amble Harbour.
Warkworth is a very beautiful historic village. It also has some great pubs and local independent traders, including a fantastic artisan chocolate shop, which is well worth a visit. The main street Castle Street, is framed by the castle at one end, and the market cross and village church at the other, the church dates back to 1132.
The castle with its magnificent cross-shaped keep was once home to the Percy family who also own nearby Alnwick Castle where their descendants still live today. The exact date of the castle’s construction is not known, although it dates back to the 12th century.
Being a formidable fortress, it played a crucial role during the turbulent times of the Wars of the Roses and the English Civil War, serving as a strategic military base.
The ruins of Warkworth Castle overlooking the River Coquet
After passing through Warkworth village to tick off the castle and of course take a few photographs, it was back to the coastal path for the final mile or so to the nearby port of Amble, known as the friendliest port in England.
Amble is home to a busy marina and harbour village with brightly coloured beach huts and wooden retail pods selling local Northumberland gifts and produce. There are plenty of fantastic places to eat and drink, and if seafood is your thing, then you’ll absolutely love the restaurant scene in Amble.
I eventually arrived in Amble at 3.20pm, my 30-mile challenge had taken me just under 10 hours, and considering it’s been a few years since I’ve done anything over 20 miles, I was pretty pleased with myself.
Amble Harbour the friendliest port in England
Yes, my feet were sore, but I’d loved every minute, and I’d earned my blisters. For once my dog Charlie actually looked exhausted, being a working Springer he never stops, but considering the amount of running about he did, he must have wracked up 40 miles easy to my 30.
So we both sat in a pub beer garden to take it all in; I treated myself to a well-deserved pint and Charlie got a bag of pork scratchings.
Final Leg Important Information
Distance: 7 miles (with the detour around Warkworth village, river and castle)
Walking time: 2 - 2.5 hours
Refreshment stops: Warkworth village and the end destination of Amble
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Jeff
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